A Survey on the Altiplano Collection

Jul 31, 2012,13:06 PM
 

Piaget has been making thin, elegant gentlemen’s dress watches with Piaget manufacture movements for decades. Classic, round two and three hand watches in precious metal cases will never go out of style, though to keep up with contemporary fashion they have had to expand their diameter while not augmenting their thickness these past ten years. Piaget has kept on top of this trend in its Altiplano collection by offering three distinct models in three different styles that stand up well in comparison with Patek Philippe Calatrava, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, and Breguet Classique models.

The Altiplano 38 mm in rose gold, ref GOP 31114, has a current retail value of $16,000 (White gold models from Piaget command a premium to the rose gold models). Inside is the Piaget Calibre 430P. The movement is only 2.1 mm thick, and the case is all of 6 mm thick. Variations are in white gold, with both silver and black dials, yellow gold with silver dial, along with diamond set versions, most of which are exclusive to Piaget boutiques.






The dial has all of the Altiplano hallmarks: simple baton hands, painted hour indexes, and a slight curvature towards the edge of the dial, reminiscent of a quality many vintage watches possess.

The Altiplano 38 has a solid case back, which hides the beautifully finished 430P, but with a case and dial so beautifully executed, one might never miss a view of the movement.





 All Altiplano cut a lovely profile:





The Altiplano 40 mm in rose gold, ref GOA34113, has a retail value of $19,000. Inside is the  Piaget Calibre 838P, 2.5 mm thick, and with small seconds at 10 o’clock. The thickest of the watches in the collection, the case of the Altiplano 40 is 6.6 mm thick. I adore this whimsical take on the classic dress watch with subseconds, both for the placement of the subdial as well as for the design of it, with the right hemisphere having a classic printing of the seconds, and the left hemisphere breaching the recess and printing out the 35, 45, and 55 compared with the classic 10, 20, and 30 of the right half of the subdial.





The calibre 838P features Piaget’s characteristic finishing, with blued screws holding the bridges to the mainplate, a circular wave pattern, and beveling, perlage, and straight grain or polished finishes as appropriate to a high end watch manufacturer.






The Altiplano 43 mm in rose gold, ref GOA35131, has a retail value of $23,000. Inside is the new caliber 1208P, which with its microrotor is only 2.35 mm thick. The case is an almost impossibly thin 5.25 mm. The dial is on three levels, though it sacrifices the curvature at the outer rim for the sake of slimness.





The calibre 1208P is large, and is not swallowed up by the large case, allowing it to look proportional under the sapphire crystal case back.





I would be thrilled to own any one of these dress watches, but if I could only pick one I would choose the 40 mm model, as the diameter and dial design most suit my taste. I would prefer that the strap not be padded, as I think that works against the ultrathin feel of the watch, but I would never let a strap get in the way of my getting a watch.

Bill



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Lovely overview!

 
 By: Poktori : July 31st, 2012-16:44
Thanks for posting, Bill! One variety I would also love is a large automatic version of the plain Altiplano with dauphine hands but without seconds. In 40mm or 42mm. But even some purists might find that too plain. Anyway, I hope you can sometime own one ... 

While I like Dauphine hands as much as anyone....

 
 By: WHL : August 6th, 2012-11:01
I think they would be out of place in the Altiplano collection because the baton hands partner well with the thin "Baton" painted hours markers. Regardless, I hope you can make the 40 mm model yours some day. It is truly great dress watch. Bill

I'm torn between the 40mm and 43mm.

 
 By: dxboon : July 31st, 2012-20:54
On one hand, I would really like to add a micro-rotor to my collection. I also like the historical tie-in to notable vintage Piaget movements in the 43mm variant. However, IMO 43mm is really getting to be TOO much of a good thing when it comes to a true d... 

Like others have mentioned...

 
 By: WHL : August 6th, 2012-11:03
an automatic 40 mm watch would be nice to see. After all, VC does it successfully with the 81180 (manual) and 85180 (automatic) Patrimony Contemporaine models. Bill

That exact 38mm in that metal has always been the one for me

 
 By: ArthurSG : July 31st, 2012-23:40
from Piaget apart from the Relatiff of course. That to me is near the ultimate for a black tie event.

Too voyeuristic

 
 By: MTF : August 3rd, 2012-11:02
arthur, Sometimes, the hint and mystery of the unseen is more scintillating than the full frontal...... Or in this case, the full rear exposure. He who knows...and knows he knows......... :-) MTF

For women yes, for watches no.

 
 By: ArthurSG : August 3rd, 2012-21:12
for me at least.

Agree on the 38 mm Altiplano being the perfect

 
 By: WHL : August 6th, 2012-11:05
watch to accompany the wrist of a formally dressed gentleman. A piece of minimalistic perfection. Bill

"SImply Perfect" is another way to put it.

 
 By: ArthurSG : August 6th, 2012-19:44
I trust you are keeping well my friend.

Thanks for the post Bill.

 
 By: foversta : August 1st, 2012-09:38
I really believe that Piaget should consider a 40mm automatic Altiplano. The skeletonized version (even smaller!) shows that a smaller caser is perfect for this micro-rotor movement. Fx

Nice Pics

 
 By: BTWatchguy : August 2nd, 2012-13:10
Well Writen Bill, Thanks for the great photos

Piaget, Piaget, Piaget ... you gave me some sleepless nights ...

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : August 3rd, 2012-08:51
First: thank you for the post! Piaget, yes that is and was one manufacturer that I am still "breading" about: loooovely designs, but here and there still not convinced about the technical aspects in some "simple" watches. If I compare the 1208P with Patek... 

Perhaps our moderator could ask Piaget....

 
 By: WHL : August 6th, 2012-11:13
for the technology used for bearings and such. The spec sheet did not contain such information. Bill

I had the same thought ...

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : August 7th, 2012-05:14
Would be nice to know of this possibly hidden property of the movement. Best Moritz

Delayed reply about Piaget 1200/1208 P

 
 By: MTF : August 21st, 2012-21:38
Sorry forumners, Piaget and the whole of Switzerland have been on something called the Summer Shutdown They returned and I have asked the technical question. No doubt my e-mail is unuder a Swiss mountain of other e-mails! I will post as soon as we know. P...  

Many thanks Melvyn!

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : August 22nd, 2012-05:45
I really do appreciate your help in this matter. What I ment was more a technical element, a method like bearing the second wheel after the rotor on balls. Yes, you are right about technical formats changing and also about materials used. And also that th... 

Universal Geneve UG1 66 - UG 2 67 did have this feature

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : August 22nd, 2012-11:59
Hello again, just found the information on the net: as I suspected Universal Geneve was not only the first one to use a micro rotor, but also to use the second ball bearings. On an Italian watch forum it was also discussed that this might have been an ins... 

PIAGET answers

 
 By: MTF : August 31st, 2012-05:49
The answer has been placed in a new posting thread. The URL link follows: piaget.watchprosite.com