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MTF
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PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 2

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 2

For the introduction to enamel techniques and terms in Part 1: click here

I acknowledge the assistance of Piaget for technical explanations about their enamelling techniques and products.

Miniature Enamel

The technique of miniature enamelling or enamel painting is probably the one that requires the most patience and artistic know-how on the part of the enameller. This technique consists of coating a gold plate with a layer of baked enamel that will serve as a base for the motifs. The latter are then applied to this first layer of enamel and entirely painted by hand. The powders used for miniature enamel painting are extremely fine and are mixed with natural oily essences to facilitate their application.

The painting is applied in several fine layers, each fixed by a firing operation. The colour of the enamels becomes more intense with the successive firings, which means that the enameller needs to plan ahead of time how many firings are required, as well as the exact influence of many firings on the development of the colours.  Once the painting is complete, the “Geneva” technique is implemented: the latter is fundamental to the Piaget approach and consists of protecting the painting using a transparent enamel known as flux, in order to give special depth and radiance to the work.

More than just a craft, miniature enamelling is an art that gives rise to some extraordinary paintings. The objects created in miniature enamelling testify to the incredible virtuosity of these artists who are truly in a class of their own. An art characterised by rigorous standards, tireless patience and a flair for details, miniature enamelling has naturally found its place in the world of Haute Horlogerie.  Displaying the unfailing excellence that pervades all their work, the long-established Piaget teams of designers and enamel specialists enjoy the privilege of constantly enhancing the brand’s creations. Enriched over the years by their spirit of cooperation and respective skills, they jointly work on exploring new techniques creating new effects – as is vividly demonstrated by Piaget’s recent creations.

The orchid family comprises several thousand different flowers. Piaget chose four of them (Cattleya, Doritaenopsis-Kenneth Schubert, Doritaenopsis-Malibu Easter and Dendrobium-Pale Doreen) in 2008 to adorn the dials of Piaget Altiplano models and revealed during SIHH 2009, four new amazing flowers: Irene Yellow Laeliocattleya (Ref. G0A34240), Golden of Tainan Brassolaeliocattleya (Ref. G0A34241), Profusion Laeliocattleya (Ref. G0A34242), Heron Ghyll Brassolaeliocattleya (Ref. G0A34243).

Piaget Altiplano 38 mm with Manufacture Piaget 430P mechanical hand-wound ultra-thin movement  

18-carat white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.7 ct)
Miniature enamel dial, Cattleya orchid painting, silvered baton hands
Ref. G0A33240

18-carat white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.7 ct)
Miniature enamel dial, Doritaenopsis-Kenneth Schubert orchid painting, silvered baton hands
Ref. G0A33241

18-carat white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.7 ct)
Miniature enamel dial, Doritaenopsis-Malibu Easter orchid painting, silvered baton hands
Ref. G0A33242

18-carat white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.7 ct)
Miniature enamel dial, Dendrobium-Pale Doreen orchid painting, silvered baton hands
Ref. G0A33243

Bearing the fascinating names of these orchids, they were selected to grace the eight one-of-a-kind creations painted using the technique of miniature enamelling. Taking full advantage of the spacious dial, the petals unfurl across the entire surface in a spectacular array of colours and slender veins. To achieve this result, the enameller used the miniature technique serving to reproduce motifs on a small scale in enamel. It took the craftsman a full month of work to achieve the final result that also involved a second technique: flinqué enamelling.

Used here to create the background, this method is based on a guilloche-work surface covered with a transparent and lightly tinted surface. Each unique in its own right, these dials are housed within 18-carat white gold cases set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Inside it throbs the brand’s pride and joy: the Piaget 430P ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement.

Champlevé flinqué enamelling

With the flinqué technique, the enamel both reveals and protects the precious metal base. Often transparent and occasionally coloured, it forcefully highlights the guilloché-work and intensifies the shimmering reflections inherent to this technique. Flinqué enamelling may be used on its own, but also as a backdrop for other decorations such as miniature painting. Moreover, it provides scope for an exceptional play on colours of which Piaget is a well-recognised exponent, thanks to the talent of the enamel artists and guilloché-work specialists who faithfully and meticulously perpetuate the time-honoured gestures of Haute Horlogerie decoration.

On the two Altiplano models featuring a flinqué enamel dial, the Manufacture reproduces the rare “panier” or “basket-work” guilloche motif. At the crossroads between tradition and the modern era, this meticulous work on the metal base creates a powerful geometrical effect. The ladies’ watch (measuring 34 mm in diameter) is distinguished by the purple colour of the dial, as well as by an entirely gem-set bezel. The men’s model (38 mm in diameter) has a greenish-grey dial. In both cases, the 18-carat white gold dial conceals Piaget Calibre 430P, an ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement. Each of these models is issued in a limited edition of 50.

38 mm diameter 18-carat white gold case
Guilloché grey transparent enamel coated dial, silvered baton hands
Ref. G0A32082

34 mm diameter 18-carat white gold case set with 72 brilliant-cut diamonds
Guilloché purple transparent enamel coated dial, silvered baton hands
Ref. G0A32083

Cloisonné enamelling

The cloisonné enamel technique consists of creating cavities to form a motif. The contour of the latter is first marked out with silver or gold strips of wire. Since the exceptional is the rule for Piaget, the hollows are made exclusively from gold. Once the motif has been reproduced, the wire strips are fixed to the gold base with a special glue called 'tragacanth gum' which will disappear during the firing. The partitions thus mark out a certain number of hollows corresponding to the various colour zones. The enamel is then placed in each of the hollows and fired. This operation is repeated several times in order to heighten the intensity of the colour and to fill all the cavities.  After the last firing, the piece is lapped and glazed to create the final effect. There are different versions of this technique, including “”plique-à-jour” cloisonné enamelling in which the hollows are glued to a thin copper base which is then dissolved with acids. There is therefore no base by the end, which results in transparent-like effects like those of a stained-glass window.

Miss Protocole Enamels

Piaget introduced enamel into its range through the Piaget Miss Protocole collection in 2005. Each year brings an interpretation of a new theme such as flowers, sea beds or butterflies, as in the latest version. Each model scrupulously complies with the concept inherent to the Protocole watches. It is based on a motif that spills over from the dial onto the case and clasp, flowing naturally from one part of the watch exterior to another. The surfaces are thus viewed as a whole, forming a vast field of expression dedicated to the art of enamelling and to that of jewellery.

The Piaget Miss Protocole 2008 comes in four versions issued in limited edition of 10 each in tribute to the 10th anniversary of the line. Fitted with an 18-carat white or yellow gold case, they house a 57P quartz movement powering hour and minute hands. Butterfly motif in champlevé enamelling.

Case and dial in 18-carat white gold set with 232 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 1,2 ct)
Integrated buckle on case set with 100 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.8 ct); Interchangeable satin strap
Ref. G0A33130

Case and dial in 18-carat white gold set with 229 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 1 ct)
Integrated buckle on case set with 95 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.8 ct); Interchangeable satin strap
Ref. G0A33131

Case and dial in 18-carat yellow gold set with 243 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 1 ct)
Integrated buckle on case set with 103 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.8 ct); Interchangeable satin strap
Ref. G0A33132

Case and dial in 18-carat yellow gold set with 201 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 1.1 ct)
Integrated buckle on case set with 105 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx 0.8 ct); Interchangeable satin strap
Ref. G0A33133

Piaget Protocole XXL Enamels

In 2009, the Piaget Protocole XXL collection is clothed in enamel for the first time. Combining the champlevé and miniature enamel painting techniques, the two Piaget Protocole XXL models respectively shows a view of Paris and another of New York.

Once again, the motifs occupy the entire surface of the cambered cases crafted in 18-carat white or yellow gold and housing a Piaget 830P mechanical hand-wound movement (Thickness: 2.5 mm). Displaying the hours and minutes, it is meticulously decorated and features circular Côtes de Genève finishing, a circular-grained mainplate, bevelled and hand-drawn bridges, as well as blued screws.

On the New York model, the Statue of Liberty positioned to the left is swept over by the hour hand.  Each of the two models is issued in a limited edition of just three pieces.

18-carat white gold and enamel case.
Enamel dial representing New-York architecture
Ref. G0A33008

18-carat white gold and enamel case
Enamel dial representing Paris architecture
Ref. G0A33028

Personal Choice

Whatever the results of your favoured enamelled piece, it is enlightening to know the processes and artistry that went into its creation. My personal favourite for elegant and practical use is the pure enamel or grand feu style, but I have to admit to a secret admiration for the unobtainable champlevé style of the Limelight New York piece, if money was no object!   Of course, having the Tourbillon Relatif movement in that Polo case helps sway opinion!   

What's your favourite enamel piece?

Regards,

MTF

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