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PIAGET Mythical Journey Collection part 7: Miniature Enamel with Gold Silver Leaf

From the launch of 'A Mythical Journey Collection' of watches and jewellery by Piaget in November 2013, we take a closer look at a traditional technique: Miniature Enamel for watch dials featuring Piaget Protocole XXL Miniature Enamel, Piaget Emperador XL Miniature Enamel and Piaget Altiplano 38 mm Miniature Enamel with Asian landscape, Indian landscape, Crane, Elephant. Pine and Plum Flower motifs. Piaget has included a unique technique of adding gold and silver leaf to the miniature enamel painting to some watches in the Mythical Journey Collection that evokes the luxury and wealth of the cities on the Silk Road.

The art of enamel at Piaget is described in previous reports on PuristSPro (see references below).
Enamelling is the process of fusing layers of ground glass onto metal using a kiln or torch. Firings can take from 30 seconds to several minutes, with the kiln heated between 650°C and 1000°C, depending on the techniques and materials used.

Colour
Colour in enamel is obtained by the addition of various minerals, often metal oxides of cobalt, iron, praseodymium, or neodymium. The last creates delicate shades ranging from warm grey through wine-red to pure violet. Enamel can be transparent, opaque or opalescent (translucent), which is a variety that gains a milky opacity the longer it is fired. Unlike paint, different enamel colours cannot be mixed to make a new colour. This produces tiny specks of both colours; although the eye can be tricked by grinding colours together to an extremely fine, flour-like, powder, the true skill is creating new homogenous colours.

The process is more of an Art rather than a Science because pyrometer readings vary widely from kiln to kiln. No precise firing temperatures are “universal". Enamelling on silver is very different from enamelling on copper; what is high-firing on silver may be a low-firing for copper. Enamellers share information about specific effects or enamel behaviour as Hints rather than Standard Operating Procedures.

Painted Enamels
Traditionally very finely ground metallic oxides are painted onto a white enamel base with fine brushes and fired, layer upon layer. The process, which is analogous to painting, can produce a detailed three-dimensional quality. Painted enamel, a design in enamel is painted onto a smooth surface.

Miniature Enamel
The technique of miniature enamelling or enamel painting is one that requires the most patience and artistic know-how from the enameller. This technique consists of coating a gold plate with a layer of baked enamel as a base for the motifs. The latter are applied to this first layer of enamel and entirely painted by hand. The powders used for miniature enamel painting are extremely fine and are mixed with natural oily essences to facilitate their application.

The painting is applied in several fine layers, each fixed by a firing operation. The colour of the enamels becomes more intense with successive firings, which means that the enameller has to plan ahead of time, how many firings are required, as well as the exact influence of many firings on the evolution of the colours.  Once the painting is complete, the “Geneva” technique is used to protect the painting with a transparent enamel known as flux, in order to give special depth and radiance to the work.

More than just a craft, miniature enamelling is an art that gives rise to some extraordinary paintings. The objects created in miniature enamelling testify to the incredible virtuosity of the artists. An art characterised by rigorous standards, tireless patience and a flair for detail, miniature enamelling has naturally found its place in the world of Haute Horlogerie.  Displaying the technique in the service of aesthetic excellence, the long-established Piaget teams of designers and enamel specialists enjoy continually enhancing the brand’s creations. They jointly work on exploring new techniques, creating new effects – vividly demonstrated by Piaget’s recent creations.

Piaget Protocole XXL Miniature Enamel
18K white gold case with miniature enamel and hand-engraving, Mythical Journey logo applied under the sapphire case-back
Miniature enamel dial with gold and silver leafs under transparent enamel and hand-engraving, Asian landscape design
Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power-reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 42 mm x 46 mm
Bracelet : black alligator with white gold folding clasp
G0A38564 (3 pieces)

Piaget Protocole XXL Miniature Enamel
18K yellow gold case with miniature enamel, Mythical Journey logo applied under the sapphire case-back
Miniature enamel dial with gold and silver leafs under transparent enamel and hand-engraving, Indian landscape design
Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power-reserve (approx.)
Case diameter: 42 mm x 46 mm
Bracelet : Black alligator with yellow gold folding clasp
G0A38584 (3 pieces)

Piaget Emperador XL Miniature Enamel
18K white gold case set with 358 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.9 cts) and 36 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 2.8 cts)
Diamond-paved case-back with engraved Mythical Journey logo, small sapphire case-back for the Tourbillon. Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Miniature enamel dial with gold leafs under transparent enamels and cranes
Manufacture Piaget 600P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical tourbillon movement
Functions : H, Mn, Tourbillon, S, 44-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 36 mm x 46 mm
Bracelet : black alligator with white gold folding clasp set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.4 ct)
G0A38566 (8 pieces)

Piaget Emperador XL Miniature Enamel
18K pink gold case set with 358 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.9 cts) and 36 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 2.8 ct) on the clasp
Diamond-paved case-back with engraved Mythical Journey logo, small sapphire case-back for Tourbillon
Miniature enamel dial with silver leafs under transparent enamel and elephants
Manufacture Piaget 600P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical tourbillon movement
Functions : H, Mn, S, 40-hour power-reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 36mm x 46 mm
Bracelet : Brown alligator with pink gold folding clasp set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds
G0A38587 (8 pieces)

Piaget Altiplano 38 mm Miniature Enamel
18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct) with Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Engraved dial with transparent and miniature enamel, pine needles
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 43-hour power reserve (approx.)
Bracelet : black alligator with white gold ardillon buckle
G0A38576 (38 pieces)

Piaget Altiplano 38 mm Miniature Enamel
18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct) with Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Engraved dial with transparent and miniature enamel, plum flowers
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 43-hour power reserve (approx.)
Bracelet : white alligator with white gold ardillon buckle
G0A38577 (38 pieces)

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 1
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 2
piaget.watchprosite.com

"A Mythical Journey by PIAGET" Series (CLICK the following URL links)  

A Piaget Mythical Journey Begins (Overview)   
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 2: Bulino Engraving  
piaget.watchprosite.com
 
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 3: Plique-à-jour Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 4: Engraving Gold
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 5: Micro-mosaic
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 6: Precious Thread Embroidery
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 7: Miniature Enamel

piaget.watchprosite.com
 

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 8: Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

Dr M. Teillol-Foo (2014)

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