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[PuristS]
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PIAGET Mythical Journey part 3: Plique-à-jour Enamel

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 3: Plique-à-jour Enamel

Dear PuristS,

Following the general launch of A Mythical Journey by Piaget in November 2013, I would like to present a look at one specific technique: Plique-à-jour Enamel.

It is an old handicraft.
It really comes into its own for one of the subjects of the mythical journey:  The Peacock.
It is sublime.
It is limited to a few discerning connoisseurs.

Plique-à-jour cloisonné HISTORY and TECHNIQUE

There are four ways of creating plique-a-jour:

1. Filigree plique-a-jour ("Russian plique-a-jour"): This is the method that Piaget employs but it is interesting to see what other methods exist in the world.

2. Pierced plique-a-jour ("Western plique-a-jour"): A sheet of gold or silver is fenestrated or pierced before a jig saw is used to cut out the design. This leaves empty spaces or "cells" to fill with enamel.

3. Shotai shippo ("Japanese plique-a-jour"): A layer of flux (clear enamel) is fired over a copper base or form. Wires are fired onto the flux (similar to cloisonné) and the resulting areas are enamelled. The final step is to dissolve away the copper base, leaving a translucent shell of plique-a-jour.

4. Cloisonné on mica: Cells of precious metal are covered with fixed mica, which is removed with abrasives after enamelling.

A variation of the cloisonné enamel technique, filigree plique-à-jour enamelling was developed in the 6th century by the Byzantine empire. Vestiges of the Byzantine technique can be found in religious icons from Georgia.

This cloisonné variation is made with the cells glued to a thin copper base which is then dissolved with acids. There is therefore no base by the end. The enamel is fired into an open metal framework, which results in transparent-like effects. The enamel is held in place by the cloisons or partitions surrounding it, like the lead in a stained-glass window.

All traces of the so-called “Kievian Russia" (East Slavic) technique appear to have vanished with the great Mongol invasions of the 13th century.

Plique-à-jour enamelling is recorded in France from the 14th century onwards, but it was Benvenuto Cellini, an artist of the Italian Renaissance, who became the first to provide a detailed description of this procedure in his 1568 treatise on goldsmithing and sculpture.

Due to its extremely fragile nature, plique-à-jour enamelling was not used very frequently, particularly for large-size artwork. It re-emerged in the 19th century with creations from the House of Fabergé, while the Art Nouveau movement returned it firmly to the spotlight in the 20th century. It reached its peak with jewellery models referred to as “émaux translucides à jours” (translucent openwork enamels).

The peacock motif was a natural choice to highlight this all too rare technique. This is partly due to the multiple eyes adorning its tail and that all represent cavities for the master enameller, as well as to the colours of the bird that are rendered truly spectacular thanks to the play on light created by the transparency effect. These vibrant hues shimmer and shine with the dazzling beauty of pure poetry.

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu Plique-à-jour Enamel (CLOSED) 
One watch, two cases
18K white gold case set with diamonds.
Upper case: Plique-à-jour enamel with paillons and diamond-set peacock design
Lower case: Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Silvered dial

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu Plique-à-jour Enamel (OPEN)

Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 43mm
Bracelet : white alligator with white gold set folding clasp
G0A38583 – N° 01 / 08

The peacock variants in the Mythical Journey Collection also include other techniques like gem-setting and engraving.

I show them to illustrate the cohesiveness between watches and coordinated accessories that is the Piaget Mythical Journey.....

Limelight Exceptional Piece – Peacock Inspiration
18K white gold cuff watch set with 645 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 17.3 cts) et 24 pear-cut diamonds (approx. 5.2 cts)
Silvered dial

Piaget 56P quartz movement
Functions : H, Mn
G0A38579 – Unique piece

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu (CLOSED)
One watch, two cases
18K pink gold case set with diamonds.
Upper case: diamond-set peacock in pink gold
Lower case: Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Silvered dial

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu (OPEN)

Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 43 mm
Bracelet : white alligator with pink gold set folding clasp
G0A38582 – N° 01 / 08

Please refer to previous articles about Piaget enamel watches by clicking the links below to find descriptions of the nine different enamel techniques.

Piaget Technique & Aesthetic: Part 2 – Enamel : [CLICK the following link]:
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 1   [CLICK the following link}:
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 2   [CLICK the following link}:
piaget.watchprosite.com

"A Mythical Journey by PIAGET" Series (CLICK the following URL links) 

A Piaget Mythical Journey Begins (Overview)  
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 2: Bulino Engraving 
piaget.watchprosite.com
 
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 3: Plique-à-jour Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 4: Engraving Gold
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 5: Micro-mosaic
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 6: Precious Thread Embroidery
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 7: Miniature Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 8: Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

Dr Melvyn Teillol-Foo (2014)

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