Piaget

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SIHH 2012: Piaget

I was very excited while going to my appointment with Piaget Team at the 2012 SIHH for two main reasons. First one was my eagerness to see the new Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin. Second one to discover the new case in the collection: the Gouverneur.

Let's start the report with a very expected watch which was unveiled by Piaget during the last quarter of previous year: the Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin. You can't find a more "Piaget" watch than this one. It concentrates all the skills, all the know-how of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie.

The first surprise coming from this timepiece is the case diameter: 38mm. Much smaller than the 43mm of the Automatic Altiplano using the 1208P movement (with small second hand) or the 1200P one (without).





Second surprise is the skeletonized style and pattern, very contemporary for our biggest pleasure.

The result is an unusual watch classic and original at the same time with a main fature: a movement, the 1200S, whose micro-rotor animates both sides. The Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin is a "living" watch far from the feelings brought by other Skeleton watches.





Finishings are flawless and the use of colours is very clever in order to preserve the overall legibility. I like the contrast between the rotor and the bridges and the way the balance bridge was finished.





With this timepiece, Piaget gets two strong performances: the thinnest automatic skeleton watch (5,34mm) and the thinnest automatic skeleton movement (2,40mm).





Due to the visual impact of the skeletonized dial, size is perfect and the movement fully occupies the available space... which was not the case of the Handwind Skeleton and its 40mm case. So the logical question is: what about releasing an automatic Altiplano with a smaller diameter than the 43mm case? I understand perfectly that the current collection is made of 38,40 and 43mm cases which is already a broad range of diameters. But an automatic alternative with a 38mm case would be great!




Some close-up pictures:













We stay in the Black Tie world with the new case: the Gouverneur. The Gouverneur is a big (43mm) and thin case with a very slender style.
I wrote so many times here that I was deeply waiting for a new case especially for the chronograph complication that I was delighted to discover it. I felt that there was something missing in Piaget collection. The Altiplano is too specific and not dedicated to house complications. The Emperador are form watches. The Polo is maybe too original. Well, there was a hole somewhere. And of course, as expected with Piaget, the new case is not a mere case. It has a strong personality like the Emperador Cushion or the Polo. I consider it as a designer achievement... and I was not surprised to know that this case is the fruit of the Gueit family... father and son! The objective of the Gouverneur  is to propose a case which is able to be used for complicated watches and which is more consensual than the Emperador or Polo without losing the subtle touch of originality.


The key part in the Gouverneur case is the bezel. It defines its originality and I would say... almost its shape. The Gouverneur case is round, no doubt about it. But the dial is oval. A Gouverneur watch is a very refined timepiece which mixes these two shapes to create an unusual visual effect. It is elegant, refined and it creates the right atmosphere to house the 3 "complications" which are offered with this line.

Piaget had the good idea to propose 3 different watches with its new case to already build a strong pillar in its catalogue. Sure that this line will become broader in the future (second timezone watch would be great even if this complication is already offered with the Chronograph).

The first watch is  the Automatic with Date. The big challenge for the designers was to create a balanced dial due to the use of caliber 800P in a 43mm watch. They managed to do it thanks to the outer part by the bezel with sunrays finishings, thanks to subtle lines and a rather complex dial. At the end... the date window doesn't seem to be lost on the dial which is actually the case. Good job!









The Gouverneur Automatic Date is the "entry level" watch of the line but it contains the same care of details than the other two watches. I especially liked the work on the case and the finishings of the dial.

Thanks to its twin-barrel, the 800P movement has 85 hours of power reserve (3 and a half days). Frequency is 3hz.

My fav of the line is the Chronograph. Movement used is 882P which also features a twin-barrel. Power reserve is 50 hours and its frequency is 4hz. A chronograph movement coming from Piaget is never a mere one. It has a flyback function and careful... a second timezone display at 9 o'clock. So there is no permanent second hand running on the dial. Of course these features are not a big surprise for the Polo Chronograph fans.




Left sub-dial is a second timezone display and not a chronograph counter or a permanent second hand:







The short lugs improve the wearability of the watch:



You will notice that the shape of the pushers are in harmony with the dial. I really like this care of details:



A complex dial:





Finishings of the movement are very faithful to Piaget spirit: nicely made without any baroque effect and a sober atmosphere compliant with the overall elegancy of the watch.

Last Gouverneur watch is the Flying Tourbillon with moonphase display. As always with Piaget, it is a Flying Tourbillon which allows us to appreciate the beauty of its behaviour. You will notice the original moonphase display, not very useful I must confess but it nicely decorates the dial and gives a good balance.
Movement is handwind 642P with a power reserve of 40 hours and a frequency of 3 hz.
















The beauty of the Flying Tourbillon:




Three Gouverneur watches share in common the pleasure to wear them thanks to the comfort of the case: the shape and short size of the lugs improve the wearability despite the large diameter. I would highly suggess to try them even if you have a small wrist.  They look smaller than their actual size.

The question is to know is the 43mm were not too ambitious for an elegant watch. I would answer that the key point about the Gouverneur case is the way the bezel plays with the shapes. A smaller case wouldn't have allowed such kind of effect and it would have been a pity. Moreover, as I said before, the comfort on the wrist was preserved thanks to the short lugs.

Gouverneur case is only available in PG or in WG with set bezels:














The Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin and the 3 Gouverneur watches were the stars of the show. But Piaget also unveiled other novelties like these nice and fun set watches:

The flower dances around the dial!





This watch tells the time like a secret...









The use of stone dials enhances the beauty of the Altiplano:





The main achievement with this watch is the flexibility of its bracelet. It is really surprising and impressive.









Lastly, a logical move was made with the Polo which became "All Black":













Last watch of the report, this two tones Automatic Polo was also unveiled during the 2012 SIHH after the two-tones complicated Polo in 2011:





This 2012 collection is a very important one for Piaget. A new case is never a minor event. I really think that with the Gouverneur case, Piaget built a strong new pillar which will support its ambition in the future.

I would like to thank a lot the Piaget team for the warm welcome, it was a pleasure to browse with them the novelties.

Fr.Xavier

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