Secret (noun): something kept from knowledge or view (from Merriam-Webster online).
What is it to have a secret? To know something that others do not. A small deliciousness to be savored alone, or with a very few. In a world where information is king, secrets can be powerful. They can bind us; they can be used to compel us; they can corrupt.
Or, they can bring us together.
In freely sharing something experienced by only a few, enjoyment can be compounded. I now gladly share a secret with all of you -- the Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu is stunning. Yes, I've said it. Stunning. Not nice. Not serviceable. Not excellent. Stunning.
It is remarkable in all the ways you wish a watch to be.
It is finished beautifully. It feels substantial. It houses not one, but two manufacture movements. It is an original design. It is elegant. It has presence. It is painstakingly constructed. It is unexpected. The version I reviewed dazzled with diamonds, as well.
First, a basic description of the watch. It's essentially two watches in one. Two separate ultra-thin movements in two watch cases are elegantly superimposed. The upper case is hinged, allowing the wearer to flip open the top dial to reveal the secret second watch underneath. This design makes the Double Jeu one of the most unique dual time watches in the world. The model I reviewed was encased in 18K rose gold with a diamond bezel, and diamond encircled small seconds display.
Upper Watch
The uppermost dial of the Double Jeu is its public face. In this instance, a beautiful, opalescent sunburst of silver. The way light plays off of this dial (and the lower dial also) brings a liveliness to the experience of time-telling that is only evident in the best watches. The silver dial showcases svelte, and elegantly elongated black indices, in an alternating pattern of singles and doubles, which complement the watch's slim stick hands.
The Piaget logo is nicely integrated at three o'clock.
This positioning allows space for the gorgeous small seconds display at ten o'clock on the dial.
Many people, both inside and outside the watch collecting hobby commented on the beauty of the subseconds display on this watch. The diamond setting around the small seconds creates the illusion of circular motion. This is an incredibly satisfying effect visually, as it enhances the circular graining of the subdial. Arabic numerals add a dash of practicality to the subseconds display.
If this watch was a prizefighter, the first initial jab that would serve to get any watch lover's attention would come in the form of its diamond-set bezel. The brilliance of Piaget's diamonds and their expertise at gem-setting is widely known, and this iteration of the Double Jeu is proof positive of their skills in the field of jewelry-making. Altogether, the watch sports 68 diamonds, totaling 3.2 carats.
The upper watch houses Manufacture Piaget movement 838P, a wonderfully finished ultra-thin (at 2.5mm) caliber that exudes elegance -- it's well-designed, and the movement layout never feels forced. The Piaget DNA is all here in this third-generation of very thin hand-wound mechanical movements from their manufacture (calibers 9P and 430P/450P being the previous ultra-thin generations respectively). Signature decorative elements such as circular Geneva stripes, and blued screws convey that Piaget message of beauty with integrity of purpose; not audacious and overdone decoration.
Lower Watch
The lower dial is a deep blue shade, somewhere between azure and lapis. The watch's 43mm diameter, and large dial leave the viewer with an impression of looking into a shimmering pool of liquid. The pairing of rose gold case, blue dial, and gilt indices is a rich, inviting combination.
Unlike the upper watch with its jeweled small seconds display, this dial moves forward with the simple, yet satisfying presentation of just the hours and minutes. Again, the motif of thin indices and stick hands is in evidence on the lower watch. The alternating single and double indices, coupled with Piaget logo at the three o'clock hour bring a unifying theme to both dials of the Double Jeu.
A photo from Piaget's private collection shows a horological precursor for the dial design found on this Double Jeu. Note the slim indices and hands on this vintage piece.
The lower watch is powered by Manufacture Piaget movement 830P, although we cannot see the movement, as we can with the upper watch, owing to the installation of a solid caseback. The solid caseback is the right choice here, in my opinion, as the engraving of the Piaget coat of arms is top-notch (showcasing Piaget's facility in yet another decorative art form). Piaget reserves this type of caseback engraving for significant timepieces inspired by the manufacture's history.
Case / Strap
The 18K rose gold case is weighty, substantial and feels great on the wrist. Amazingly, even though the Double Jeu is two watches with separate movements, the watch is only 11.7mm tall (inclusive of the lugs) -- slender enough to fit under my French-cuffed dress shirts.
The case finishing was a huge highlight of this timepiece for me.
The marriage of satin and polished areas on the case created a great tactile and visual sensation.
Additional architectural elements, such as the fantastic sculpted lugs, provide another element of interest for the connoisseur to enjoy.
Many companies make watch cases with both satin and polished elements, just like many of them create diamond-set watches, but Piaget makes this piece special.
The pictures give you an idea of what I'm talking about -- look at the screw countersinks on the rear of the watch near the hinge release (Very nicely polished!); and the multiple finishes on the pusher itself and watch's hinge!
In addition to looking great, all these mechanisms work smoothly and reliably. I was worried that the hinge mechanism was going to feel flimsy and loose, but that was not the case here.
The release button depresses easily and gives just the right amount of tactile feedback.
The crowns for both movements (at 2 o'clock for the upper watch, and 4 o'clock for the lower one) wind with a buttery smoothness. All in all, every mechanical interaction with the Double Jeu is excellent.
The watch was delivered on a brown alligator strap with a signed rose gold deployant. The folding clasp was one of the nicest deployants I've encountered and was particularly well finished with a lustrous polish, as seen in the pictures below.
I have long said the Double Jeu was my favorite offering from Piaget. My time with this watch solidifies my thinking on this matter. There is an originality and elegant audacity in the design of this piece. The secret second watch, allowing for a dual time function, is all the more playful due to its hidden nature. This watch is two watches in one -- that's the literal truth, but emotionally it also feels like one watch for the outside world (the upper watch) and one just for you. If there is a downside to this watch for me, it's that this particular model with its diamond bezel and diamonds on the dial is not a piece that flies under the radar. It's an eye-catching watch, and the only timepiece I've worn that drew comments from almost everyone I encountered. Stealthy, this watch is not, but for those of you who insist you'd never wear a jeweled watch -- take a second look. I assure you that this piece is eminently wearable.
Note: The Double Jeu also comes in white gold, and both the white and rose gold models are available with or without diamonds. All photos marked with the PuristSPro logo taken by Anthony Tsai. Please note that protective plastic was left on some parts of the watch (i.e. caseback, lower dial, deployant) so what you are seeing may be slightly obscured by that material.
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18K rose gold gem-set Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu
Reference number: G0A32151
43mm
Total carat weight: 3.2
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Upper watch: silvered dial, small seconds underlined with diamond-set rose gold, black indices; Manufacture Piaget movement 838P with 62 hour power reserve (21,600 bph).
Lower watch: dark blue dial showing hours and minutes, gilded indices; Manufacture Piaget movement 830P with 62 hour power reserve (21,600 bph).
Both movements are 2.5mm tall, with 19 jewels (131 total components). They are decorated with circular Geneva ribbing, perlaged plates, beveled bridges, engraved Piaget coat of arms, and blued screws.
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Thanks for reading!
Daos
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-06-14 09:25:31 This message has been edited by dxboon on 2010-06-21 23:10:56